As opposed to old-fashioned, complicated mortise locks the locksets that you will see today are cylindrical and are easy to put in. The installation procedure involves the drilling of a large hole through the front of the door, and one smaller hole that is drilled along the edges. Once the holes have been drilled the hardest portion of the job is cutting the mortises to make the latch and strike plates.
Two factors are essential to the success of your Install A Lockset: a meticulous layout as well as sharp equipment. Along with tape measure and a square combination and hammer, you’ll require scratch awls, a 21/8-in. hole saw and an 15/16-in. spade bits, as well as a 1 in. chisel. Making the lockset is different between brands and therefore it is essential to follow the instructions of the manufacturer.
Stabilize The Door, After Which Drill The Small And Large Holes
Step 1. Make use of a combo square to layout. The majority of locksets come with an outline of paper to locate the face and edge bore. It’s simpler and more precise to make use of a combination square, particularly in the event that you’ve multiple locksets to set up. Start by securing the door open halfway with some shims underneath the lower edge. Mark the door’s face from both ends, approximately 2/3 inches. from the edge leading to the door (2 3/4 in. for doors that are exterior) and generally 36 inches. to the level of the flooring. This is marked in the middle of the door, to match the markings on the face.
Step 2. Pilot holes clear ways for bigger parts. To ensure that your holes to assemble the cylinders are in the correct spot and do not wander using a scratch awl, you need to make the exact starting points. Make pilot holes by drilling 1/8-in. bit on the edge, as well as on both sides of the door.
Step 3. The face bore is first to be drilled. With the tool at a certain level and with a square in front of the door and drill halfway through one side using an 21/8-in. hole saw. Complete the bore from the opposite side of the door.
Step 4: Make use of a nail as a marker to determine the center of the strikeplate. Close the door and secure it tightly to the stop. Then, push a nail of 6d across the 1-inch. pilot hole at the door’s edge until it touches the jamb of the door; a pry bar can be used to leverage the door should it be required.
Step 5: Make holes to the latch as well as strike with a 15/16-in. spade bit. (A 7/8-in. bit isn’t enough for most latch mechanisms as the gap left behind by a 1 in. bit isn’t completely covered in the latch plate.)
Step 6. Make use of the latch as a guide. After drilling the hole in the edge bore then insert the mechanism of the latch and fix it using the screws supplied. After that, trace around the edges using an sharp utility knife. Take care when cutting vertically across the grain as the knife can drift. Some carpenters prefer using scratch awls for cutting across the grain.
Step 7. Make sure you take your time using the chisel. Use a chisel that is sharp at 45 degrees to the workpiece, and cut the surface of the mortise using a gentle tapping the chisel using the hammer. Cut across the grain in small increments of 1/8 inch. or so. After that, cut off the scrap or so, moving the chisel toward the center. Examine the fitting to the door’s latch. it should be close to the door’s surface. If you find yourself carving too deeply, cut the cardboard piece to make the latch plate to make it flush to the edge of the door.
Step 8. Set the strike in line and the latch. Close the door and then transfer the bottom and top sides of the plates onto the jamb on the door. Then, measure the distance between the edges of the plate that is the inner front of the door and then leave the equal quantity of room between reverse of the striker and the top of the door. For 1 3/8-in. doors (if you have the lock set correctly) The space must be a substantial 1/8 inch.
Step 9: The strike mortise must be cut according to the same method used to cut the latch plate.
